The Tobago Cays Marine Park consists of a cluster of small, uninhabited islands that look like a place you’d want to be marooned if that was a thing that actually happened anymore.

Jason moved us around one of them and we jumped in for a circumnavigation of Petit Rameau. We jumped in under shifting skies and almost immediately we were greeted by a huge school of Thread herring. The biggest school we’ve seen on this trip. We worked our way around the island, face down, just swimming, enjoying clear waters and the strength we’ve earned in our strokes by now. We got around to the east side of the island and I was delighted to see some healthy reef life - many living hard and soft coral heads, much variety of reef fish, even a few sea anemones which I have not seen in shallow waters in maybe a decade. What a lift. We were getting tossed around quite a bit but no one seemed to care. I often marvel when swimming in rough waters how the little fish below me are just moving efficently from here to there as if there’s no current, no swell, nothing bouncy at all. It reminds me that no matter how at home I feel in the water, I will always be a visitor. I’m grateful to them for having me.

We got back to the sandy sea bottom beneath our boat and played with some rays and another turtle and basically dragged our fins getting back aboard. We are all pretty happy in the water in these parts.

Jason prepared us for our longest sail yet - about 3 hours - up to Bequia (pronounced Bek-way). As we made our final approach to the island, he announced we were going to “Thread the Needle”. What he meant is that we were going to sail through a verrrrrry narrow cut - not much wider than the boat - between Bequia and a small rock island beside it. Everyone rushed to the bow for a front row view. Our yacht slipped effortlessly between the two imposing structures and everyone ooohed and ahhhed. It was such a simple thing, but totally thrilling. It didn’t hurt the the shoreline of Bequia is absolutely stunning - huge cliff faces, dark and imposing, with caves and crags and hanging vegetation. Atop the cliffs on the other side are a few very distinct looking houses designed in the style of Frank Lloyd Wright. They are contemporary and blend in almost seamlessly with the landscape. We continue as Jason takes us close to the cliffs, narrating the tour all the way, to the Moon Hole, which features an enormous natural arch, underwhich is a house from the 1960s that was turned into a resort. It eventually closed due to fears of the arch falling, which half of it did last September! The rock formation and peculiar house beneath are stunning regardless. The entire passage made me dream about how to get a swim in there. Perhaps tomorrow….

We picked up a mooring ball at a spot just across the bay, equally beautiful and home to a tugboat shipwreck from about 20 years ago. We jumped in for an incredible swim along the cliffs, the water was soooo deliciously clear and more healthy reef life atop the volcanic rocks. We saw huge, healthy gorgonians (soft corals), living coral heads and tons of fish. Rockbeauties, box fish and gray tangs ruled the roost. Myssie found a spotted drum! And Marcus (of course) found a spotted moray eel. It was a garden of eden. And the cliffs so tall and majestic - the whole scene was spectacular.

We returned back to our boat in a generous rain and did a little free diving on the tugboat wreck. Jason and Zack had already made it through a crazy swim through the wreckage. I stopped at the deck, making a free dive to about 35 feet. Thank you Zack for getting a pic of me down there.

We dried off as Jason moved us to a mooring by a beach which is where we sit tonight. Zack whipped up some cocktails and a very showy rainbow made an appearance. The verdict is that this little experiment of traveling from Grenada to St. Vincent is a hit. We love the Grenadines and can’t wait for one more full day in her waters tomorrow.

Love,

Heather

Thursday threads the needle.

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