Τετάρτη = Wednesday, κουδούνι = Bell.

Today’s Greek lesson:

κουδούνι = koudouni = bell.

Today’s Greek lesson:

κουδούνι = koudouni = bell.

We overnighted at Marmagkas Bay here on Ithaki (no sign of Odysseus overnight, but there was a rager on a neighboring boat. Everyone slept anyway…). I caught a lovely soft sunrise from my hatch. By 7, the boat was still quet. What a lovely excuse to stay in bed a little longer, especially after Lou Lou, with angel wings, brought my coffee right to my little nest. Efcharisto, Lou Lou! xx

As planned, we jumped in at 0800 to a welcoming sea that was flat and silky. With long smooth strokes we passed a few other sailboats, all residents still asleep. At the rocky shore line, we immediately came to one of my favorite little pocket beaches - it’s in a tiny fjord like cut, with steep walls on 3 sides. I love this little beach, and so I’ve claimed it for my own. 

On to a very cool swimming chute between the rocks. Kevin wasn’t so sure at first. I went through again and dragged him along. On the exit, he said, “that was cool” and gave me a high 5. Hooray! 

We gazed at these stunning rock walls for a while. Discussed our half baked knowledge of the geology of these islands, marveled at the size and grandeur of it. Someone mused about what people thousands of years ago must have thought when they saw these shores. It’s no wonder ancient cultures developed mythological stories. How could you not consider the divinity of nature when confronted with such magnificence. Every one of our 5 swimmers felt it.

We crossed the short channel to Marmaga Island - home of Nikolaos Chapel. After stopping for a group portrait in front of a natural window in the stone wall, we climbed out for the short walk to the top of the island. Here sits the chapel with its hanging bell. We each take a turn to ring it, with good thoughts, hopes and dreams in our hearts. Special.

We took a straight shot back to the boat, the bottom was far far below but the visibility was so good we could see it. Just as we got to the boat, Susan caught a jellyfish tentacle seemingly out of nowhere which wrapped around her right arm. She scraped at it to get it off but not before it did a number on her. It was so rotten at the end of such a perfect swim - we quickly got her out of the water and Lisa set straight to business applying vinegar and ammonia and benadryl gel. A hot shower also helped take the sting away some, as did a paste made from baking soda and sea water. All of these things help a little, but unfortunately the biggest help is time. Sometimes we get a reminder that the ocean is still a wild place, even when it’s being mostly kind to us. I wish it had been me instead of Susan, who has been incredibly game and inspiring on this trip. Five years ago she was in a terrible cycling accident. She ended up badly broken and mostly paralyzed from the neck down, with an uncertain prognosis. A woman of science and incredible fortitude, she researched everything and anything that might reverse her predicament. She did everything she could to regain her mobility and strength. Here she is, 5 years later, walking through airports and leaping from Pnoe to the sea, swimming strong and immersing in everything we have to offer her. Watching her climb out of the water today onto the rough stone pier to walk up to the chapel and ring the bell was powerful. We all assisted to make it as easy as possible for her, but the effort and grit was hers. I choked up a little when both Roger and Susan rang that bell.

We moved and anchored just off the most gorgeous beach in Afales Bay, where we enjoyed a lovely early lunch to keep the day moving. We jumped in for our afternoon swim which included a magnificent cave, a stunning beach sit where a nice young German man climbed a very tall rock with my goPro to take a photo of us (Danke, nice young german guy!), and then a good, heads down swim along an epic cliff face, marked with the wrinkles of eons and plate tectonics and all manner of geological miracles. Afflicted with “just one more corner” disease, we just kept rounding into grottos and bays, looking up, mouths agape. The drama continued below the surface with massive slopes just plummeting down to the depths. Spectacular.

We climbed aboard and made for Fiskardo, a beautiful seaside town where we now sit at dock. The docking was trixie as Romesie and Lou Lou like to say, which is to say it was chaotic and hectic because of the precarious spot we were trying to get into and the very unhelpful and obstinate Greek man on shore. Richie and Lisa are expert crew and work seamlessly together. Alina and I are ok but not perfect. Dripping with sweat and jaws clenched, we got the job done. Phew.

We are having dinner ashore tonight - we will feast at some lovely little taverna and fill our bellies and shop for pretty things to bring home. We’ll take off early in the morning for another day of water wonders and whatever Thursday will bring.

Kali Nikta,

Heather