A Wednesday to remember.

Heather here, blogging for Hopper who has been struggling with a non-covid cold and wasn’t quite up to our big boat day, which in the end worked out exactly as it needed to, because Luise and Charlie also stayed home, and they needed some company, scrambled eggs and a short swim, all of which Hopper provided with his usual hosting charm. 

I packed Debbie, Bridget, Mary Anne and Kristen into the van at 0615 to head to Honokohau harbor where we were scheduled for a boat day with Bite Me Boat Charters. We’ve worked with them for years, and specifically, Captain Momi who is an authentic Hawaiian fishing waterwoman. She’s the real deal. 

We love boat day because it allows us to get to points much further south much more quickly than we could by car, and with a whole lot more excitement and adventure. The view isn’t bad, either. 

On our way we rendezvoused with Clare who passed us a cooler filled with excellent custom ordered lunches and a box of spam musubi - a Hawaiian delight of spam wrapped up in rice and seaweed. I will admit that while everyone tried one, only our locals finished them up. A very authentic part of our true Hawaii day.

We left the harbor and Momi and her first mate Conner set fishing lines as we zipped along the coast. Within maybe 15 minutes, we had something on a line, and Debbie stepped up to reel it in. As she got it closer to the boat, it was clear that it was an Ono, a wahoo as we mainlanders think of it, sleek and strong, beautiful. Connor helped her pull it in and Ryan delivered the blow. This 25 pound fish will feed many, including Momi, Connor and us over the next few days. 

We cruised down to Kealakekua Bay for our first swim of the day. Even with our brief fishing diversion, we arrived well ahead of the throngs of snorkel boats that come here. There were a few snorkelers, and we sort of snickered as they sat on the edge of the sea getting a snorkel lesson and we easily glided by on our own power, confident in our strokes and our place in the water. It feels so good to be able to move around and see so much just by swimming.

I will say the reefs here looked good - better than last year. I have seen them decline in health some over the last 11 years. In particular, a massive landslide from the huge cliffs that line this bay a few years back had covered a large portion of the reef, and it was encouraging to see full, healthy coral heads exposed and teeming with fish. In general I have seen a lot of new coral growth on this trip so far.

The bay was smooth and glassy and we easily cruised from its mouth to deep into the corner, almost to manini beach. Momi followed along in the boat, and signaled to us that she spotted a massive bait ball - a huge school of fish that is often in this end of the bay. “Massive” and “huge” don’t really describe this congregation of Akule, or Big Eyed Scad.

I estimated the school to include roughly 97 bazillion gajillion individual Akule. It was mesmerizing to watch them move in concert, the school as one mighty creature, shape shifting and kaleidoscoping and pulsing. Momi, Ryan, Kekau and I free dove down again and again to be in the middle of the school. It was thrilling and dizzying as they parted and regrouped around us. This kind of experience is one of my favorite in the sea. I made many photographs, but Kekau captured some excellent video, and I have edited a small sample of it here. Great job Ke!

We could have stayed among the giant fish orb all day but we finally climbed aboard, and Momi motored us down to a place we hadn’t been before - Ho’Okena. A second swim before lunch? YES. We plunged in. The water was cool and super clear here, with lots of fresh water from the mauka (mountain) filtering up through the rocky bottom. The halocline - the interface of salt and fresh water - distorts our vision, like looking through rippled glass. A total trip for the senses. We swam along pristine reef, across a black sandy bottom and on to more rocky plateau, with big boulders forming complex underwater structures and rooms and all sorts of places I want to explore. While was bobbing in and out of these, Kristen and Kekau were way behind us and not moving from one spot. That’s because they had a pile of curious dolphins swimming around them. Once again Kekau nailed it with some great footage. Krsiten came out of the water grinning from ear to ear. She’s been struggling with a shoulder injury and doing ALL of this swimming with one arm only, keeping up and never complaining, so it was really great that she got a personal visit from this pod. Day made.

Ryan spotted an octopus near the boat, which gave Momi, or as we call her, Octoslayer, a chance to catch her supper. Watching her hunt this very smart and elusive creature is really something. A little jarring for those of us used to ordering from a menu, but a glimpse of the life and times of a REAL fisherwoman, someone who makes their life and livelihood in the sea. There is no better way to be in the ocean than to be with someone who LIVES WITH it. The octopus was large and powerful, but ultimately no match for Momi who started fishing and hunting with her father as a toddler. The octopus went into the ice chest with the Ono.

But wait! There’s more! Momi turned the boat north and we motored the short distance to Honaunau Bay while we scarfed down our lunches. Three swims today?! YES WHY NOT. We jumped in for a short but beautiful circumnavigation of this small and stunning bay, including an underwater swim through in the reef and so many beautiful fish. We climbed back aboard, waterlogged. Uncle.

Back at the bay, Momi handed us the bag of Ono which she had expertly processed while we were swimming. We hugged and made plans for next year and dragged our salty bodies back to the car.

We all relived the memories of the day on our long ride home, stopping only for Shave Ice and Malasada (Portuguese donuts - you haven’t ever, trust me) at the food trucks in Puako. Everyone hit their quiet places and before we knew it Dan and Clare arrived with yummy stuff for dinner. Dan had slow cooked the huli huli chicken all day, and it paid off.

Everyone staggered to bed pretty early. I dreamed of sea spray and tropical reefs and a Hawaiian mermaid like a force of nature.

Well brined and loving Hawaii,

Heather