Monday on the Move.
I woke to a pattering of rain at about 0300. I’m bunking with Alina this week and she sprung up to close the hatch before I even knew I was feeling sprinkles on my face. Kind of refreshing, really. Whenever it rains in the night on SwimVacation, what usually wakes me is the sound of Zack sprinting around up on deck closing everyone’s hatches. He’s quick, accelerating from sleep to 60 in just a few seconds.
I drifted back to sleep in the confidence that everyone was dry (except for Zack) and the next time I woke I looked at my phone to see a text from Miriam. She was up before the sun, pushed the button on the coffee machine and captured this beautiful rainbow shmear, a treat made only for early risers.
Our crew readied the yacht for moving and we made our way up the coast to Halifax Bay, a quiet, deep bay with lush shores and a small island with a seemingly abandoned tree fort sort of place. What’s most special here is the reef and its life. We cruised smoothly over patches of super healthy reef, I’d say at least 90% live - something we don’t often see anymore. The mounds of boulder coral like scoops of ice cream topped with sea fans and sponges. Massive schools of silver sides and chromis swirled in pulsating clouds. We explored corner after corner and meandered along the empty shore.
A fisherman came to check us out in his row boat. “You lookin around?” he said. “Yup! Just looking around!”. He seemed satisfied that we were not there to disturb his nets, but also perhaps a little lonely, as he wanted to keep chatting. We obliged for a few minutes and then waved goodbye, heads down to continue back along the coast. As we got further from the boat, the reef turned to sand turn to sea grass beds. All at once a few of us felt the zap zap of some floating tentacles. Harmless but youch. Celine and I had had enough of that and decided to head back, the rest of our group headed to the point. Alina took one of my gopros and grabbed a few pics for me. On our way back to the boat, Celine spotted a golden spotted eel - our third of the trip! It was just inching along the sea grass bed, stopping to munch on bits of breakfast here and there. It seemed pretty confident that I wasn’t a threat as it let me get very close for some video!
Other high points of the swim were spotting two baby lionfish - an invasive species in the Caribbean but still very pretty, discovering a group of sea urchins wearing hats (see my post about this phenomenon from Greece last September!) and Alina diving down to retrieve a plastic bag we stumbled upon. Whenever possible, we try to collect rubbish we find and dispose of it away from the water’s edge.
Back at the boat, Zack got Janet in for a swim. They made it to the island and were bobbing around the reef when I reached them. Together we found a mature spotted drum, a few lionfish and some flamingo tongues - small mollusks with a spotted mantle that wraps over a creamy white shell. They graze on soft corals and sea fans. They add dimension, texture and pops of color to any coral reef, and graze just enough where it’s needed.
The swim ended with a generous rain - the kind that dimples the sea surface and makes swimmers giggle like little kids and yell about getting wet. I love love love swimming in a good rain.
It didn’t last long and soaking wet (tee hee) we climbed back aboard to second breakfast and Skipper ready to weigh anchor and head north for a good long up-wind sail. Isle de Ronde is our destination. It’s slow going today and a bit bumpy to boot. Everyone has found a comfortable place to ride it out. The wind whips our hair and we feel very wild and adventurous indeed.
Our gang were good sports about that sporty sail, and I crawled around taking sandwich orders and Ali was a champ to make easy to eat in place lunches. We finally pulled into our favorite bay at Isle de Ronde, a wild feeling uninhabited island in between Grenada and Cariacou. I called everyone into the cockpit and we chilled a little bit while talking about our upcoming swim. The wind was whipping around the bay, but everyone was excited to get in.
Splash time! This bay has a fantastic reef all along the northern wall. It’s a rocky ridge just loaded with life. On the way over we were escorted by two turtles, and when we hit the reef, Celine immediately spotted a small nurse shark with its head wedged under a ledge trying to catch a nap. I guess our squealing disturbed it enough that it grumpily turned tail and bolted, its sleek lines reflecting the sun.
We visited our favorite swim tunnel here, filled with fish of all sizes and shapes, and made our way to the white and black sand beach. This beach feels wild and we’ve always had it all to ourselves. We charged back into the wind to head back to the boat, a large puffer fish hiding in the boat’s shadow looking up at us with its big puppy dog eyes. Sweet.
Kendra and I just didn’t feel done so we went back for a little more. We were surrounded by a speedy school of jacks and examined a large free standing soft coral tree. Reluctantly, we finally climbed back aboard.
Little pastry cups of soft cheese and smoked salmon appeared, and I got a giggle eavesdropping on the banter between Zack and Richie while they muddled mint for mojitos. I love being a part of this crew. We are family and our connection shows in the work we do for our guests. Zack flashed a rockstar pose with cocktail glasses as I raised my camera, and Sam continued to document her experience with us this week on her insta feed. The sunset didn’t disappoint.
Sunsets in this bay are first rate with the Sisters islands silhouetted in the distance. Laughter and stories filled the cockpit over dinner and beyond. Blueberry pie was a kiss blown to Maine from our remote anchorage tonight. After our first full day, I’d say we all feel like family on this boat.
Everyone has ambled off to bed early tonight. I’m not far behind.
Love,
Heather
Here’s a little video of some of my favorite moments from our day.