Tuesday: Never Too Many Caves.
Wow what a difference a night without a big Greek wedding makes! Our anchorage in Tzortzi Bay on Alonissos was calm, quiet and just right for sleeping, hatches open, gentle breezes and no noise beyond the occasional goat bleat.
Tzortzi Bay, Alonissos
(39.1689609, 23.9005979)
I woke to Lou Lou bearing coffee (bless) and a perfect pink sky. We jumped into water like glass around 8am. When the sea is flat like this, we like to take advantage and plan a long, smooth swim. Simon and I plotted a long course which gave our swimmers the opportunity to go anywhere from 1.5 to 2+ miles. Simon took Katharine, Allyson and Dominique on the long haul around the far point to another beach, while Mandy and I made it to the point and turned around. The water is like velvet - smooth and soft. Crystal clear beneath us, dramatic skies above. The last 15 minutes of the swim were in an all out deluge - a driving rain that dimpled the surface and created a white layer of more water than air just above. I love swimming in a good rain like this. Mandy and I swam side by side, occasionally bumping elbows, making eye contact on every breath, and in this way we flew through the downpour, the skies clearing just as we arrived at the stern. We swam 1.75 dynamic miles in all.
A photograph cannot due this downpour justice! I love swimming in the rain.
I swam back out to meet Simon and co. as they were cutting across the bay. They had tales of sea stars near the far beach, and had been working on their stroke technique - flat, salty water is so good for maintaining proper body position. By the time they hit the boat they had easily completed 2.5 miles in total.
Lunch earned!
Good thing, because Lou Lou presented a spinach and feta pie which was to die for. A meat and cheese plate and beet salad accompanied. Nothing left, don’t ask for any.
And now we motor sail up the eastern shore of Alonissos to a favorite cave stretch we love. Our second swim will be mostly adventure and spelunking which will be a perfect compliment to our morning exercise.
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Afternoon Adventure Swim: Cave Alley, Alonissos.
First: Observing the miracle that is goat maneuvers on these insanely steep cliffs. How do they do it.
We jumped from our unanchored boat in a remote bay of Alonissos. Our target: several caves that line the shore for about a half mile stretch. Almost instantly we found a cave we haven’t ever seen before. Went in, explored, awesome. Next, I found a brand spanking new swim under into a massive moon pool - a circle space with rock overhangs but mostly sky overhead. From within the moon pool, we found two more rooms, both with swim throughs and arounds - a maze of smooth rock and turquoise water. The floor, smooth white stones. Brilliant. Back out, swim a few hundred yards, another cave. This one several stories tall, and S shaped path into the mountain side. In, back out. Another few hundred yards, a cave with a giant monolith within it. We swam in, circled the monolith in near darkness, back out. Another cave, another monolith to circle within. Here, the exit glowed brilliant electric blue at the exit, an azure window filled with fish. Spectacular.
Back out and past Skull Cave, which looks like a skull. Too shallow, no entry. Keep swimming. Finally, the enormous and massive Blue Cave. Big enough for a house we swam and swam to reach the back of it. On our way back out, curtains of light penetrated the depths. Overwhelmed by the cave riches, we charged for the boat in a strong current. Lou Lou directed us to board as Richie held position. All aboard, wrung out, we rinsed and warmed up in the brilliant sunshine. Cups of tea warmed us in a chilly breeze.
Two incredible swims today, each so different. What a Tuesday.
Suddenly little amazing fish cakes and glasses of sangria appeared. Conversation on the bow was light and fun and before we know it, dinner. Mushroom risotto? Chicken with prosciutto? Carrots with tarragon? More please. Oh wait - poached stuffed pears for dessert? How do you even stuff a pear?? Uncle.
The gang did some gaming while I edited, and it sounds like a little night dip to checkout the bioluminescence may be imminent. Perfect before bed.
The best part of today for me was watching these ladies level up in their underwater play and confidence. Swimming under archways? Through caves? Chasing our yacht in stiff current and jumping aboard? This is sea swimming. And these four handled it with power and lightheartedness.
That night time skinny dip calls. I think we will all sleep well tonight.
Heather
